A question about Aerial Anticipation

[nevo3]

I'm planning to go out to the narrows for my first time this weekend (i've been other places in the wichitas), but wanted to ask a few questions about aerial anticipation.

1 - Will I be able to reach the first bolt while standing in the dihedral or do I need pro?

Also, it looks kinda runout from the last bolt to the chains, but i havent seen a R rating here or in the guidebook for the route.

2 - How far is it to the anchor from that last bolt?

3 - Is it much easier climbing after the last bolt, or just a safe fall?

[Explore]

Good luck on the route! It's probably the best sport climb in the Wichitas.

You can get a 1 cam in the dihedral and then commit out onto the face and clip the bolt. The moves going to the first bolt aren't really that hard, but it is a bit scary to do, especially your first try on the route.

I've never felt it was runout from the last bolt to the chains, but it's different for everyone. The climbing isn't insanely hard, but you will definitely be pumped there unless you eat 11's and 12's for breakfast. The business is definitely from the 4th to the last bolt, the hardest moves being right at the last bolt, and after you pull the lip you'll have some jugs for a few feet and then the angle changes eases up a bit and you can stand and clip the anchors from a pretty big ledge. Definitely a safe fall, though scary I'm sure. Never seen anyone pop off after making the hard move. Most either fall with the bolt at their waste or send the thing. Good luck!

Also, if things don't work out for a wichitas trip you should hit up Weatherford and come compete in our bouldering comp. We have a few ropes, bouldering pades, hangboards, and a ton of clothing and chalk bags to give away. Feel free to just show up or hit me up on Facebook and I'll like you to the Event with all the details. Take care!

[mydogscout]

I would advise a shoulder length sling on that cam and maybe another long one on the second bolt to reduce the drag.  I have been so pumped after pulling through the crux that I couldn't win a hand squeezin' contest with my 4 year old niece, and even then still held on to those holds. So, yeah, it's a bit runout, but I wouldn't stress it too much.  Have fun!

Oh yeah, and the best sport climb in the Wichitas?  My vote goes to worm hole.  Kidding, what about Space Balls?

[Explore]

That pretty much hit it right on the head. I used to place the cam, go clip the first bolt, then climb back and retrieve the cam so I wouldn't have to mess with it on the way down.
And yeah, the pump is strong up there, but the holds are good so just keep hanging on for a little bit!

Lol, I should have phrased that a little more appropriately. It is the best sport climb in the Wichitas that you don't have to lead two hard pitches or one easy pitch and a little free soloing to get too. If spaceballs was ground level it would take the cake no doubt! League of Doom into Spaceballs is hands down my favorite route in the state. Scary runout climbing in the beginning, super technical and powerful face/slab in the middle, and a jug-bashing, bolt-clipping roof that carries you out into the nothingness above the canyon floor. Stellar!

[sstrong42]

Is it possible to get on top of this climb to setup a top rope or does it need to be lead first?

[jeff]

IIRC, you have to lead something, but there's a 5.6 to the left that goes to the same anchors.

[mattking]

This climb is definately an uncharacteristoc jewel of the Wichitas! If you can't lead solid 5.11 then you probably shouldn't lead this route. I have never placed a cam before the first bolt for this is not hardest part. Just need to have some situational awareness till you clip that bolt. This is purely a sport climb. Some words to the wise, in order to reach the stance to clip the first bolt you will have easier success by  stemming your left foot as high as possible allowing you to reach right for the sloping side pull. Match your feet on the sloping ramp, hit the crimp and clip. Do place 2 foot slings on the first 2 bolts you will see why. There are no hands rests after the first bolt. Oh and there is no run out at the top if you consider climbing 10-12 feet above your pro on the Wichitas a runout. BTW you fall onto mid air from the top. Good luck!

Matt