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Exposure Volume 6, Spring 2001


TABLE OF CONTENTS

Refuge Updates
Quartz Updates
WMCC News
ABC News
From the Board
Insights
Classic Lines
Events
Announcements
Special Thanks

 

REFUGE UPDATES

FIVE-YEAR NARROWS CLIMBING CLOSURE LIFTED

Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge Manager Sam Waldstein recently announced the re-opening of the north and east side of West Cache Creek in the "Narrows" canyon to technical rock climbing following a five-year closure of the area. As a result, access to once popular climbs on Sunshine Wall, Wizard Wall and other sites is now permitted.

The closure was initiated at the end of 1995 as part of the Proposed Action resulting from the Final Environmental Assessment on Technical Rock Climbing. Under that finding, the north and east side of West Cache Creek in the Narrows was closed to all climbing activity for a period of five years while the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service conducted research to determine what, if any, impacts were occurring as a result of climbing and other recreational uses of the area.

Lifting of the closure is not just good news for climbers, its good news for the Refuge as well. For it demonstrates that the exemplary partnership effort between the WMWR and the WMCC to manage climbing activity and any associated impacts at the Refuge has been a tremendous success. From educational outreach to fixed anchor management to conservation projects, our joint efforts have insured that both our climbing resources and the natural environment of the Refuge are protected. That work is no where more evident than in the Narrows.

Prior to 1995, many years of public use and little management had resulted in an area that was beginning to look less than pristine. Trash from picnickers, hikers and climbers was commonly seen; significant erosion was occurring due to a lack of properly designed trails; and the area often had a circus-like atmosphere as large groups of church goers, boy scouts, military personnel, and others converged on the Narrows for a weekend of picnicking, swimming, and rappelling. But, that all began to change in 1995 with the arrival of Mr. Waldstein and the founding of the WMCC.

That year, new policies for climbing were implemented to better manage the activity. In addition, an important partnership was formed between the WMCC and the WMWR to help minimize impacts to Refuge resources. And while those policies and efforts applied Refuge-wide, much of the focus was on the Narrows. New regulations prohibiting sport rappelling in the canyon went into affect; large instructional groups were directed elsewhere; fixed anchor use became regulated; and numerous trail restoration projects were undertaken.

As a result of those efforts, the Narrows has regained the luster and quiet, natural splendor that many of us remember from our first climbing trips to the area years ago. That was an important part of the climbing experience then, as was the unlimited freedom that climbers were allowed. As we venture back to a more pristine Narrows with some newly-granted freedom, let's keep in mind that those two things will always go hand-in-hand. By continuing to respect and care for this special place, we can help guarantee that a wilderness-like setting and the freedom to explore remain important parts of our future Narrows climbing adventures.

NARROWS TRAIL PROJECT A BIG SUCCESS

Last May 13th and 14th, thirty-five dedicated volunteers endured a weekend of hot temperatures and strenuous labor to make the WMCC's Narrows Trail Project 2000 a tremendous success. Thanks to their remarkable efforts and the invaluable supervision of expert trailbuilder Jim Angell, the Narrows Trail was extended from Leaning Tower to Lichen Wall. Climbers, especially, will appreciate their work, as the new section of trail provides direct access between climbs on Zoo Wall, Leaning Tower, and Lichen Wall.

This latest extension marks the completion of the nearly mile-long trail. It is the culmination of a series of trail projects organized by the WMCC and the Access Fund over the last five years.
As a result of those projects, serious erosional problems have been eliminated, impacts to flora have been reduced, and intrusion into riparian areas has been minimized. All that, while providing Refuge visitors with one of the most scenic hiking trails in the State.

The Narrows trail projects have played a critical role in returning the canyon to a more pristine condition. In doing so, the climbing community has demonstrated to the USFWS and to the public our sincere commitment to protecting this valuable natural resource. The WMCC wishes to again thank all of those who contributed to the success of our conservation efforts in the Narrows.

EXPOSURE invites news "Updates" related to climbing at Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.

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QUARTZ UPDATES

WMCC SCHEDULES BALDY POINT TRAIL PROJECT - VOLUNTEERS NEEDED

Thanks to a grant from the Access Fund, the WMCC has scheduled a weekend of trailwork at Baldy Point on April 7th and 8th, 2001. Trailmaster Jim Angell will travel to Oklahoma to oversee the project. The work will involve general trail improvements to the main trail that runs along the base of Baldy Point, in preparation for opening the area to the public as a new addition to Quartz Mountain State Park.

Work will begin both mornings at 8:30 a.m. and continue until 3:30 p.m., with a break for lunch. Free camping will be provided Friday and Saturday nights at the main park campground. For those who enjoy good Italian food, we'll travel to Blair Saturday evening for dinner at Louigi's.

This will be the WMCC's inaugural conservation project at Baldy Point and our first opportunity to show the new owners (Quartz Mountain State Park) just what we can do. And, since volunteers are the key to success for projects like this, we need everyone with plenty of energy and enthusiasm to volunteer your time for this important effort.

For more information or to volunteer your time to the Baldy Point Trail Project, please contact the WMCC at:

volunteer@wichitamountains.org

or, Marion Hutchison at: 405-364-9390

BALDY POINT ACQUISITION SET TO CLOSE BY MARCH 31ST

The Access Fund, Johnson Trust, and State of Oklahoma have executed all remaining agreements necessary to finalize the Baldy Point purchase. Closing preparations are underway, and the transfer of Baldy Point to the Oklahoma Tourism and Recreation Department as an addition to Quartz Mountain State Park is set to take place before March 31st.

In order to provide our membership and the climbing community with answers to some frequently asked questions about the transfer, we have prepared the following summary:

What does the purchase cover?

The 60-acre Baldy Point purchase covers the entire namesake mountain, as well as the mesquite- treed area lying south of the main climbing wall. Following the upcoming closing, all of that area will become part of Quartz Mountain State Park.

An additional 60 acres of land, which lies on the east side of Baldy Point and includes the native woodland valley, will be acquired from the Johnson Trust and transferred to the State of Oklahoma by the Access Fund at a later date. Until such time, all of that area will remain the Johnson Trust's private property, and will be utilized by the current tenant farmer for grazing and other agricultural purposes.

How will Baldy Point be accessed?

Climbers and other visitors to Baldy Point will continue to access the area by way of the existing county and private dirt roads on the west side of the property. The Town of Blair, which owns the land adjoining Baldy Point to the west, has generously granted to the State of Oklahoma a permanent easement for public right-of-way and parking on their property.

How will Baldy Point be managed?

As soon as title to the Baldy Point property is transferred to the State of Oklahoma, a Development Plan and a Management Plan for the property will be put into effect. Those plans will be based on certain covenants and use restrictions that are a condition of transfer of the property to the State of Oklahoma, as follows:

Purposes of Baldy Point:

(a) to be dedicated as part of Quartz Mountain State Park for long term preservation and management,
(b) to be preserved as a natural area, and managed for the purposes of recreation, nature observation, and education, and
(c) to serve as a local memorial to Ted and Margaret Johnson.

Uses and Restrictions of Baldy Point:

(a) The Primary Uses of the property, to be permitted in perpetuity, shall include technical rock climbing and associated activities (including bouldering, rappelling, and the use of fixed
safety anchors), hiking (including cross-country skiing or snowshoeing), nature viewing and photography, and environmental and cultural education and interpretation.
(b) Other Permitable Uses of the property may include primitive camping, mountain biking, and commercial guiding or instructional services, provided such uses do not significantly impact the natural character of the area or substantially interfere with the Primary Uses of the property.
(c) Availability: The property shall be open to the public year-round.
(d) Prohibited Uses: Mining,quarrying, logging, removing plants or wildlife, removing cultural artifacts, hunting, trapping, the sale of alcoholic beverages, and the use of motorized vehicles outside of designated access roads and trailhead parking areas shall be prohibited on the property.
(e) Development: Within the perimeter of the rockland and woodland area of the property, development shall be limited to the installation of the minimum improvements necessary to provide for the permitted uses described above. Those improvements may include hiking trails and foot bridges, informational kiosks, educational signage, trailside benches, and campsite markers. Materials used for these purposes shall be substantially of a natural character, both in texture and finish, so as to blend unobtrusively with the natural character of the area. The placement of roads, parking areas, buildings, bathroom facilities, picnic tables and other substantial improvements to the property that are inconsistent with the goals of a "natural area" shall be limited to those areas of the property lying outside the rockland and woodland areas.

These covenants and restrictions not only guarantee continued public access to Baldy Point for technical rock climbing, they also insure that Baldy's outstanding natural setting, and the primitive adventure it provides, remains a part of the climbing experience.

What improvements will be made to the area?

The Development Plan includes improvements to the dirt access road, as well as expansion and upgrade of the current climbers parking area. The road and parking lot will remain either dirt or gravel. Also, an informational Kiosk board and other minimal signage will be installed near the property entrance. Future plans include the installation of a single vault toilet near the parking area, and the designation of a limited number of individual and group primitive camping sites. As reported in this newsletter, trail improvements will also be made.

What recreational uses will be allowed?

Initially, the area will be "Day Use" only for the primary uses of climbing, hiking, nature viewing and photography, and environmental and cultural education. Primitive camping, mountain biking, and commercial guiding will not be available at Baldy Point until such time as the Management Plan for the area is finalized.

The quiet, natural setting has always been an important part of the climbing experience at Baldy Point. In order to preserve that quality, it is important that uses like primitive camping be carefully planned and introduced. Without doing so, the area would quickly succumb to the excessive impacts that occur at most public camping areas. If that happened, much of what makes Baldy Point such a special place would be lost.

At some point in the future, a limited number of individual and group primitive camping sites will be available to the public. Until then, climbers are asked to support our efforts by continuing to camp at the main park campground.

How will rock climbing be managed?

Climbing at Baldy Point will be open to the public during daylight hours. No fees or permits will be required. However, depending on the needs of State Park Management, a simple sign-in registration system may be implemented.

Climbers will climb at their own risk and be responsible for all safety issues regarding rock climbing, including the placement, use, and replacement of fixed anchors.

What will be the role of the WMCC and ABC?

The WMCC will enter into a Memorandum of Understanding with Quartz Mountain State Park in order to provide assistance with natural resource and other issues related to rock climbing.

The WMCC's Advisory Bolting Committee will serve simply as a resource monitor and advisor for Quartz Mountain State Park. There will be no application and approval process for placing or replacing fixed anchors.

The WMCC and ABC will, however, strongly support preserving the integrity of Baldy Point's traditional climbing ethics, as well as maintaining the original character of Baldy Point's established classic routes.

Will the area change significantly?

While the details of all of this may sound like there will be substantial changes at Baldy Point, the fact of the matter is that the Access Fund, WMCC and Quartz Mountain State Park are doing everything we can to keep the climbing experience at Baldy Point as close as possible to what it has been for more than twenty-five years. We're doing that in three ways:

1) By allowing climbers the freedom to climb without excessive regulations;

2) By supporting Baldy Point's traditional climbing ethics and established classic lines.

3) By preserving the natural character and solitude of the area.

The WMCC is proud and honored to be a part of this incredible conservation effort. As we begin this exciting, new chapter in the history of climbing at Baldy Point, we ask for the continued support of our members and the climbing community. Only with everyone's help, will our future climbing adventures at Baldy Point be as rewarding and memorable as those of our past.

For additional updates on the purchase, visit the Official Baldy Point website at:

http://members.aol.com/BaldyPoint

BALDY POINT PRESERVATION CEREMONY SCHEDULED

The Access Fund has scheduled an official Baldy Point Preservation Ceremony to take place at 11 a.m. on Saturday, May 5th, 2001, at Quartz Mountain State Park, Oklahoma. The ceremony will recognize the transfer of Baldy Point to the State of Oklahoma, and will honor all of those who contributed to the success of this important conservation effort. The event will take place on location at Baldy Point. Baldy Point contributors, WMCC members, the local climbing community, and other friends of Quartz are invited to attend.

For more information, contact the WMCC at:

wmcc@wichitamountains.org

or, Marion Hutchison at: 405-364-9390

WMCC ANNOUNCES SPECIAL QUARTZ MOUNTAIN FALL GATHERING

The Wichita Mountains Climbers Coalition will host a Special Quartz Mountain Fall Gathering on October 6th and 7th, 2001, as a reunion of climbing friends and a celebration of our efforts to preserve Baldy Point. Mark your calenders now, and watch the WMCC website for more information.

BALDY POINT FUNDRAISING EFFORT EXCEEDS $16,000

Thanks to an outpouring of financial support from local climbers, outdoor businesses, climbing organizations, and other supporters from across the country, the WMCC succeeded in raising more than $16,000 to assist the Access Fund with the purchase of Baldy Point. The WMCC and the Access Fund consider this a truly remarkable and unprecedented fundraising effort by local climbers. To everyone who contributed, please accept our sincere thanks, and take pride in knowing that your generous financial contributions made the preservation of Baldy Point possible.

EXPOSURE invites news "Updates" related to climbing at Quartz Mountain State Park.

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WMCC NEWS

WMCC CELEBRATES FIVE YEARS OF SUCCESSFUL SERVICE

February 26th, 2001, marked the five-year anniversary of the founding of the Wichita Mountains Climbers Coalition.

CONGRATULATIONS AND THANKS TO ALL OF OUR MEMBERS, SUPPORTERS, AND SPONSORS!

WMCC CHARTER/BYLAWS AMENDMENTS APPROVED

WMCC members voted to approve three amendments to the organizations charter/bylaws which: (1) expand the mission of the WMCC to also provide assistance to Quartz Mountain State Park in managing climbing activity at Baldy Point, (2) expand the Board of Directors to five members, and (3) provide that he office of President is filled by one Board member on appointment from the Board of Directors, and that the offices of Secretary and Treasurer are eliminated and those duties assigned to Board members or Board appointed assistants, as needed.

As a result of these amendments, the organization has been streamlined, and it's representation and effectiveness increased. The Board thanks our members for your continued support.

BOARD MEMBERS, ASSISTANTS, AND ADVISORY BOLTING COMMITTEE MEMBERS SELECTED

For the year 2001, the Board of Directors has selected the following persons to represent the interests of the climbing community and to further the goals of the WMCC:

Board of Directors:

Marion Hutchison (Norman, OK)
Jimmy Forester (Dallas, TX)
John Ferguson (Dallas, TX)
Tony Mayse (Moore, OK)
Aaron Gibson (Oklahoma City, OK)

Treasury Assistant:

Russell Hooper (Oklahoma City, OK)

Advisory Bolting Committee:

Jimmy Forester (Dallas, TX)
Tony Wilson (Lindsay, OK)
Eric Forney (Stillwater, OK)

We welcome John Ferguson, Tony Mayse, and Aaron Gibson to the Board, and Eric Forney to the ABC. Thanks to everyone for volunteering your time.

DISCUSSION BOARD ADDED TO WMCC WEBSITE

Need some Beta on that difficult testpiece at Quartz you've been hoping to repeat? Looking for directions to that incredible wall in the Wichitas that everyone keeps talking about? Wanting to pass on some ethical enlightenment concerning climbing? Then you need to visit the new WMCC Discussion Board on our website at:

www.wichitamountains.org

It's THE forum for discussing anything and everything about climbing in the Wichitas. From questions on aid climbing to comments on retro-bolting, you'll find it there.

So, if you have questions and need answers, or just feel like expressing your opinion, please visit our website and join the discussion.

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ABC NEWS

TEMPORARY FIXED ANCHOR MORATORIUM IN CHARONS GARDEN CONTINUES

As reported in the last issue of Exposure, a temporary moratorium for new routes requiring fixed anchors in the Charons Garden Wilderness Area is in place pending the outcome of U. S. Forest Service and Department of Interior agencies reviews of fixed anchor policies in designated Wilderness Areas. This action does not apply to the replacement of existing fixed anchors, thanks to Refuge Manager Sam Waldstein's continuing support for Refuge-wide replacement efforts. Climbers wishing to submit applications for new routes requiring fixed anchors in Charons Garden are asked to hold your applications until such time as the moratorium is lifted.

REPLACEMENT EFFORTS CONTINUE AT REFUGE, NUMEROUS UPGRADES REPORTED

Thanks to the continuing efforts of the climbing community, a number of additional fixed anchor replacements have been reported since our last publication, as follows:

Echo Dome

All routes have been re-equipped following the illegal removal of all hardware on that formation sometime in October of 1999 (See Exposure No. 5).

Upper Mount Scott

2 lead bolts on "Foolish Behavior"
3 lead bolts on "Toprope Route"
2 lead bolts on "Frankly Scarlet"
1 lead bolt on "Locomotive Breath"
2 belay bolts on "Simply Red"
2 belay bolts on "Baldilox Bulge"

Lost Dome

2 lead bolts on "Made in the Shade"
2 belay bolts on "Crack a Lo Lo"

For more information on fixed anchor activity at the Wichitas, visit the WMCC website at:

www.wichitamountains.org

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FROM THE BOARD

The Board would like to express it's sincerest appreciation to outgoing Board Member Eric Hobday, who recently moved to Salt Lake City, Utah. Eric was a founding member of the WMCC, and served as a director from 1996-2001. His dedication to protecting our climbing resources in the Wichita Mountains was critical to the early success of the our organization.

Eric was also a founding member of Wichita Mountains Access Association. From 1993-1996, he served on the WMAA's executive committee as a co-director, and his committed involvement and hard work were directly responsible for preserving our climbing freedoms at the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.

Eric now serves on the Board of Directors of the Access Fund, to which he was recently elected Secretary. And whether fighting for access to Hueco Tanks or lobbying support for the purchase of Baldy Point, Eric continues to champion causes that affect our local climbing community.

We all owe Eric a huge debt of gratitude for his years of volunteer service to the WMCC and WMAA.

And so, on behalf of all climbers from around the region, we offer him a heartfelt "Thank You" for many jobs well done.

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INSIGHTS

Quartz.....Protecting a Resource, Preserving a Tradition
By Marion Hutchison

For more than twenty years, climbers from across the Midwest have been venturing to Baldy Point for the opportunity to experience some of the finest granite face climbing in this region of the country. And in just a few weeks, we can all sleep a little easier, knowing that Baldy Point will forever be available to anyone wishing to test their skills on it's classic lines. But, while Baldy's climbing resources will have been protected, what about the traditions and values of this special place that we so reverently and affectionately call "Quartz"?

More than any other climbing area in the Wichita Mountain range, Quartz symbolizes the adventurous spirit and honored traditions of Oklahoma climbing. Of the nearly one hundred routes found at Quartz today, nearly all were established in traditional style during the Wichita's "golden age" of climbing from 1978-1984. That style had as it's core value the understanding that all routes were to be established from the ground up, and that all protection, including fixed anchors, was to be placed on lead.

That ground-up style was a respected, historical tradition that was rooted in the foundations of classic mountaineering. Throughout the world, it had become the fundamental value upon which all climbing was based. For while the goal of climbing was to reach the top, the value of climbing was in the challenge of getting there. Anything that diminished that experience took away from the adventure.

Fixed anchors, to some degree, fell under that category. Even though they were often necessary on many first ascents, excessive use often eliminated the adventure of a climb by assuring the outcome and eliminating the risk. As a result, another historical climbing value adopted in the Wichitas was the belief that fixed anchors were to be used in very limited numbers and only when nothing else would work.

A third core value that was adopted in Oklahoma was the strict free climbing ethic that had emerged from places like Eldorado Canyon, the Shawangunks, and Tuolumne Meadows in the early 1970's. Seeking to push the challenge and adventure of climbing even further, climbers in those areas had adopted tough standards which made even the slightest use of aid while climbing unethical.

Combined together, these ideals made up the basis for the traditional values that served as the foundation of climbing at Quartz in the late 1970's and early 1980's. Climbs were considered to have been done in good style if they were established from the ground-up, with all protection, including fixed anchors, placed on-lead. In addition, on free ascents, no top-rope previewing or rehearsing was permitted, and the use of any type of aid was prohibited, even while placing fixed anchors. Bolts were to be placed only as a last resort, and when they were necessary, only the bare minimum were to be used.

As a result, most of the face routes at Quartz that ascended the steep, featureless granite were equipped with just a few bolts. Those fixed anchors were located, if stances allowed, so that the most difficult moves were protected. In between the crux sections, long runouts on easy to moderate terrain were common. And while there were a few routes which were considered desperate and poorly protected, all of the routes at Quartz were valued and respected because of what they stood for.

For you see, there was a greater purpose in the traditions of Quartz and the style of those routes. The goal was to prepare yourself, physically and mentally for greater challenges yet to come. The way to get there was clear. Learn technique; develop strength; push your limits; control your fear; and build confidence. And the routes at Quartz did just that.

Those valuable lines remain today, as originally established. Over the years the local climbing community has chosen to preserve the character of those routes and the tradition of Quartz. By doing so, we honor not only the past, but also the future. Because the climbs at Quartz have more to offer than just a casual weekend outing on some fine granite. Their true value lies in giving climbers the inspiration to seek greater adventures, and in providing them with the experience and confidence to attempt those climbs in good style.

There's an incredible world of climbing out there beyond the local crag and neighborhood gym. Big walls in Yosemite, desert towers in the west, large alpine faces in the Rockies and the Alps, and enormous granite peaks in Alaska and Patagonia. For many of us, being a climber means aspiring to those kinds of experiences.

But in order to survive and succeed in that arena, you've got to develop traditional climbing skills outdoors on real rock. And not just your physical abilities, but your mental fortitude as well. You'll need to learn to control your fear, and know how to climb confidently in difficult and uncertain situations.

Because in the bigger world of climbing, there aren't bolts every ten feet to guarantee your safety, or arrows to show you where to go. You'll often be placed in threatening situations where you must trust your abilities and be comfortable leading with only minimal protection.

That's why so many of us support maintaining the traditionally established lines at Quartz. We respect those routes and honor the style, not because of the fact that we've done them, but because of the lessens they taught us and the doorway they opened.

The climbs at Quartz are not relics of the past, they're learning opportunities for those now and in the future who want more from climbing than a secure weekend outing or a gymnastic clip-up. By preserving those routes and the tradition of Quartz, we maintain it's value as both a physical and mental training ground. In doing so, we keep the doorway open.

And so it is, that Quartz is much more than just a wonderful climbing crag. It's also a passage for those in our local climbing community aspiring to grander adventures on the great walls and peaks across this country and around the world. As such, we owe it to ourselves and to those who will follow to not only protect the resource, but to also preserve the tradition.

EXPOSURE invites responsible "Insights" concerning climbing resource protection and conservation issues.

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CLASSIC LINES

Flying High on Aerial Anticipation
by Aaron Gibson

While vertigo should never be central to a climber's mindset when attempting to red-point a route, on Aerial Anticipation (5.11c) it's a bit different. The ground seems to fall away exponentially with every step upward. Tiered roofs and powerful moves add to the misperception of height, making the prospect of falling just a handhold away. Combine this unrelenting exposure with a sporty style unique to the Wichitas and you have one of those quintessential moments you yearn for when clipping the anchors on a classic line.

Starting Aerial can be an adventure in itself if the water is high. You've got to negotiate a step- across from the top of a partially submerged boulder to the main wall. After sauntering up an easy right facing dihedral, most climbers place a small cam with a long runner in the corner before traversing right onto the face to clip the first bolt. Now the real fun begins!

Make a couple of moves up the face on positive edges to the first of three overhangs and clip a hidden second bolt (you won't see it until you are eye-level with it). Use a long runner on this bolt to reduce drag and keep from being pulled right should you fall making the next moves.

There are two variations for the next section: you can either go straight up and "walk like an Egyptian," traversing left to the third bolt, or you can do the direct version by making a long reach to an open-handed hold, then pull through the second overhang. The latter method is preferred by most, although it is more strenuous.

At this point, the third bolt, you'll feel like you are hanging in space. All you see is sky, and then that undeniable feeling of exposure sets in and you clinch the holds a bit tighter. Crouched in a squatting position you have to strain your head backwards to see the next clip and reach the next hold. You can hear the stream below and the echoes of your belayer and friends shouting words of encouragement and perseverance. You are nearing the crux, so get ready to pull hard!

Commit to the bomber horn above your head, keep your momentum, don't hang out too long or you'll burn out. Clip the fourth bolt quickly, hike your feet up and go for a hidden hold on the left. Stick it! A couple of short powerful deadpoints and you can clip the last bolt. Beware, many climbers fall at the last bolt because they are so desperate to reach the top or they are burned from the previous moves. Keep your head on, take a deep breath, and concentrate.

After clipping the last bolt the climb goes back to vertical and you can stand up comfortably again. Don't get too relaxed though, it's an airy top-out! A final chalk-up and climbing on in-cut holds leads to a grassy landing and chain-anchors. You'll be happy you made it and so will all those people below.

To locate Aerial, park in the Narrows parking lot and hike the trail as if you were going to Zoo Wall or Lichen Wall. Aerial is on the first overhanging wall on the west side of the canyon after the long uphill and downhill that takes you over the ridge and into the main canyon of the Narrows.

If you want to top-rope the climb, find a climber that will lead it for you and set it up on top-rope. Or, rappel in from the top of the west side of the Narrows to the anchors. And remember, don't underestimate the climb or overestimate your ability. Climb safely, climb smart.

EXPOSURE invites narratives and beta about classic climbs in the Wichitas.

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EVENTS

BALDY POINT TRAIL PROJECT

When:
April 7th and 8th, 2001

Where:
Baldy Point
Quartz Mountain State Park, Oklahoma

BALDY POINT PRESERVATION CEREMONY

When:
11:00 a.m., May 5th, 2001

Where:
Baldy Point
Quartz Mountain State Park, Oklahoma

SPECIAL QUARTZ MOUNTAIN FALL GATHERING

When:
October 6th and 7th, 2001
Where:
Baldy Point
Quartz Mountain State Park, Oklahoma

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ANNOUNCEMENTS

WMCC ANNOUNCES ESSAY AND PHOTO CONTEST

The WMCC is sponsoring a Climbing Essay and Photo contest, which is open to anyone who would like to contribute a short story or photograph for use in our newsletter and on our website.

Entries to the Essay Contest must be 750 words or less, typed-written, and fall under one of the following categories:

1) Tales from the Gripped: A narrative account of an epic climbing-related adventure in the Wichitas (including Quartz).

2) Flash from the Past: A narrative account of a memorable first ascent in the Wichitas (including Quartz).

Entries to the Photo Contest may be black & white or color, print or digital, and contain climbing action in the Wichitas (including Quartz) as the subject matter.

Entry deadline for both contests is October 1st, 2001.

Winners will receive a one-year subscription to Climbing Magazine.

Please send your entries to:

WMCC
P. O. Box 721567
Norman, OK 73070-8207

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SPECIAL THANKS

The WMCC would like to express our thanks and gratitude to following individuals and organizations, without whose support and dedicated efforts the Baldy Point Acquisition could not have been accomplished:

Access Fund

Margaret P. Johnson and the late Ted Johnson

Dr. Suzy J. Spradlin

Oklahoma Tourism and Recreation Department

Oklahoma Tourism Commission

Town of Blair

We especially wish to thank all of those listed below, who donated their time and money to the project:

The Texas Mountaineers
Larry Gustafson
Leon Weiss
Chuck Lohn (Hangdog Mountaineering)
Climbing Magazine
Doug Robinson (Moving Over Stone)
Marc Johnston and Peggy Rickets
James A. Lasseter
Land Run Escrow and Title Services, Inc.
Eric Hobday
Marion Hutchison and Anne McGill
Trey Graves
Joe Ripperger
Jeff Gilbert
Jean and Denise Wilks
Terry Andrews
Mark Herndon and Kelly Dixon
Mike Lewis
Tony and Pam Wilson
Ed Holloman
David Waddell
Steve Gilliam
Russell Hooper
Mark Matos
Tony Mayse and Lori Boren
Jimmy and Monica Forester
Perry Kaufman
Bobbie Vash
Becky Hall
Bob Orbelo
Rick and Jana Thompson
Fred Nakovic
Theresa Puckett
Tom Hancock
Mike Raines
Brian Jung
Cary Czichon
Linda Larr
Duane and Lisa Raleigh
Chris Corbett
Dean Myers
Coral McCallister
Joe Romero
Eric Stahl
Mike Coe
Nancy Coe
Fred Crosson
Jim Fanning
Stern Feinberg
John Miller
Kurt Kennett
Eric Howard and Liz Bullen
Creed and Bailey Divis
Robert Allen Rolling
John Ferguson
Annamarie Skalski
Dan Pate
OKC Rocks Climbing Gym
Peter Holcombe
Bradley Huffman
Bob and Bonnie Kamps
Mike Castleman
Public Lands Interpretive Association
Amy Matlock
Raton and Valerie Parmain
Mark and Julie Calhoun
Craig Coffey
Margrit Schwarz
Mike Wooldridge
Mike Garbee
Mathew Komatsu
David Thoms
Central Texas Mountaineers
Mountain High, Inc.
Jane Bull
David Certain
Aaron Gibson
Chuck Barbee
Julie Collins
John Gogas
James Crump
Marilynn King
Kemal Farid
Cindy Caruthers
Barbara Richardson
Rob Woolf
Dray Bullard
David Girdner
Kansas City Climbing Club
Mark Edgmon

TABLE OF CONTENTS

 

 
Dedicated to protecting the climbing resources and natural environment of the Wichita Mountains