New fixed gear routes will be evaluated using a high standard. Only quality new fixed gear routes that add to the Refuge's climbing experience and do not infringe on existing climbs will be approved.
New fixed gear routes will be evaluated on the potential degree of impact to Refuge resources. Of main concern are areas with: (1.) Existing high densities of fixed anchors, (2.) Sensitive plants and wildlife (3.) Fragile rock.
Bolt hangers and fixed chains must blend in with the natural color of the rock. Use commercially made camouflaged hangers or paint the hardware the color of the rock. Large, obtrusive bolts, (rings, etc.) should not be used for lead bolts but may be appropriate for belays. Anchors should be designed as to eliminate the need for nylon slings.
Equipping new routes with fixed anchors should be done only out of necessity (i.e. fixed anchors are the only means by which the route can offer protection). Generally fixed anchors should not be placed near adequate natural protection. "Convenience bolting" is not appropriate for the Refuge. Rappel anchors may be appropriate in cases where rappelling the route results in less trail erosion or resource impact than down climbing or hiking off of the "back side".
The essential character of routes, as established by the first free ascent, should be preserved. This means existing traditional climbs will remain so. Generally retro-bolting will be approved only to replace bolt for bolt in the same location. Exceptions may occur.
New fixed gear routes will not be evaluated on the basis of climbing styles. Local climbing ethics support diverse values and attitudes regarding the role of fixed anchors as well as the "proper" process of placing those fixed anchors.
Gardening, chipping, gluing, removing vegetation, cutting trees and prying off rocks is prohibited. Be "resource sensitive" when developing new routes. Tread lightly and be aware of environmental impacts. Use good judgment!
Generally routes under thirty feet (30 ' )will be evaluated as top-rope problems only.
Power drills are prohibited in the Charons Garden Wilderness Area.