Application Process For Fixed Anchor Activity
The U. S. Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS) requires the approval of a Fixed Anchor Application prior to the placement, replacement or removal of fixed anchors in the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge (Refuge). Refuge management in association with the climbing community has developed guidelines for the placement of fixed anchors which minimize negative impacts to Refuge resources while allowing new development of quality fixed gear routes. This process is part of a comprehensive management plan for rock climbing designed to insure that the activity remains a compatible recreational use of the Refuge. Any person placing, replacing or removing fixed anchors without permit approval is subject to fines and penalties as specified by the USFWS.
HOW DO YOU APPLY FOR A PERMIT TO PLACE OR REMOVE FIXED ANCHORS?
Any person desiring to place, replace or remove fixed anchors (bolts, pitons, etc.) in the Refuge must complete a Fixed Anchor Application form. Applications are available at Refuge Headquarters. Simply read the Review Criteria & General Rules, fill out and sign the application form and waiver, and mail the completed form to:
Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge
Attn.: Fixed Anchors
Route 1, Box 448
Indiahoma, OK 73552
Only one application per person may be submitted during a review period (quarterly) for new routes. Applicants must be 18 years old or older.
HOW DO YOU KNOW IF YOUR APPLICATION IS APPROVED?
Refuge Management, assisted by the Advisory Bolting Committee (ABC) of the Wichita Mountains Climbers Coalition (WMCC), will meet 4 times a year (quarterly) to review applications. You will be notified by mail within two weeks of the review date as to whether the application is approved or not approved.
The review process will be expedited for applications to replace bolt for bolt in the same location on existing routes.
WHAT DO YOU DO IF YOUR APPLICATION IS APPROVED?
If approved, you will receive a permit outlining the terms and conditions for placing, replacing or removing the authorized fixed anchors. The permit must be obtained before you install or remove any gear. The permit expires six months from the date of issue.
ARE SOME AREAS OF THE REFUGE CLOSED TO ANY FIXED ANCHORS?
YES. All the rock faces on the north and east side of West Cache Creek in the Narrows will be closed to any climbing activity for a five year study on environmental impacts. This includes the Sunshine Wall.
Also, fixed anchors should not be placed on the short rock faces immediately and directly off of the road which travels to the summit of Mt. Scott (curb side).